H

omelessness. Tech. Gentrification. Fashion isn't usually the first word we hear when we talk about the Bay Area, but when it comes to Arts and Culture, Oakland has always been at the epicenter.  From studios and galleries, to the streets and freeway underpasses, art is everywhere. The creatives here are relentless. And they go hard, forever pushing the boundaries and redefining our culture. Oakland is one of the most diverse cities in America, known for its legacy as a mecca for art and social justice. It is a place where poor queer and trans communities of color gather, organize, build and create. What we've been allowed to see in the mainstream is just a taste of Oakland’s creative wealth that has been growing and thriving for decades in the underground. The “D.I.Y.” vibe, also known as Do It Yourself, is the one thread that ties Oakland’s artist communities together. Oakland's D.I.Y. artists can be defined by their originality, vision, dignity, and hustle — radically rooted in anti-capitalism, resourcefulness, sustainability, and ingenuity.


For this Visual Arts feature, we teamed up with three Oakland-based artists breaking ground in the local and international fashion scene. From street protests and basement studios, to New York Fashion Week and Vogue Italia — these three artists are hella D.I.Y.: 100% self-made, 100% QTPOC, and 100% killing the game. Read their stories. This is how they're doing it.

Dexter Simmons

Celebrity Stylist, Fashion Designer & Reality TV Star

How did it all begin?

My name is Dexter Simmons. I was born in Oakland, California. Honestly, my interest in fashion started with my love for villains in comics. I found a bit of escape in creating; and at that time, I really needed it. I just loved the vibe and the outfits. When I got a little older, I started studding jackets for friends and fixing up rave gear. Before I knew it I was in school for all things fashion while trying to survive SF and trying to find my lane.

What are some of your notable successes and accomplishments?

I began smaller in SF getting into magazines like 7x7, SF Guardian, and Scene with some of my more editorial work. I first gained mainstream recognition when competing on Rihanna’s “Styled to Rock,” where I worked with artists such as Rihanna, Neo, Nervo, Kylie Minogue, Miley Cyrus, and Pharrell Williams. After that madness, I went on to work on some commercial spots with the Billboard Music Awards and started showing in fashion week in LA and NYC. Soon after, I competed on Season 15 of Project Runway.

What challenges have you faced to reach where you are now, and how did you overcome these challenges?

There are so many challenges while navigating a fashion career that started with me sewing in a basement in Oakland. In a lot of ways, I’m my own worst enemy; so a lot of my challenges come from me being hard on myself. I just want every element perfect and that can drive me a bit insane.

What inspires you? Do you have role models or teachers who have supported you along the way?

My inspiration comes from people who take the obscure and make it beautiful. Artists like Grace Jones, Dapper Dan, Alexander McQueen, and Hussein Chalayan really make me push myself. I find more inspiration in nature and plants than people, but I occasionally get obsessed with time periods.

What advice would you give to people setting out in this profession?

I’m not really qualified to be giving advice, but I would say authenticity is key. Go to school, learn all the rules, then break them.

Where will we see you next?

I will be at Fashion Week in February but if you wanna see more of my work, I post a lot of my journey on Instagram @Dexterflawk.

See more of Dexter’s work on Instagram @Dexterflawk and online at dextersimmons.com.

Ayana Brumfield

Model, Producer, Activist

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How did it all begin?

It all began about 3-4 years ago when my partner at the time took me to a casting for a runway show named Controversy, produced by Tiana Lee. At that time I had stage fright and didn't believe I could do it. After walking a few times at rehearsal and gaining confidence, I fell in love with the runway and it soon led me to many other creative ventures.

What are some of your notable successes and accomplishments?

Some of my notable successes would be creating a ‘zine with Gypsy Sport, walking In New York Fashion Week with some of my favorite designers, and also landing in Vogue and Paper Magazine a few times. It's great to be getting paid for the work that I do. My most notable success would have to be producing my own fashion show: Limitless Queer Fashion Show.‍

What challenges have you faced to reach where you are now, and how did you overcome these challenges?

A few challenges that I have faced to reach where I am now would be; finances, being afraid of my potential, politics, and location. I have overcome all of these obstacles by manifesting and hard work. Trusting in myself and the universe to align me with what is for me but also preparation for when opportunities arise.‍

What inspires you? Do you have role models or teachers who have supported you along the way?

I am inspired by the individuals that I hold close in my life and by my undying drive to be the best version of myself — and to live out my life's purpose. A role model and mentor of mine when I first started all of this was Fallon Davis. She was so unapologetic and passionate and willing to do the work for our community. She lit a fire inside of me that never went out. ‍

What advice would you give to people setting out in this profession?

My advice for people going into this profession would be to find what makes you feel confident and practice self-love every day. This field can be very surface and draining, or very beautiful and rewarding. It’s all about what you put into it and what you surround yourself with.‍

Where will we see you next?

You can see me next at Limitless Queer Fashion Show, next June. Follow @limitlessqueerfashionshow for updates.

Follow more of Ayana’s work on Instagram @yxnibrmp

K Martinez

Activist, Model & Public Figure

How did it all begin?

I’ve always had an affinity for masculinity as a tomboi. I first saw Queer GNC Masc Womxn as an undergrad. They, albeit white, were my first visual exposure to Queer Womxn in menswear. I moved back to Boston for grad school, cut my hair short, and started seeing a Queer Masc Black barber. I started to authentically express my gender in my late 20's. It wasn’t until I moved to Oakland four years ago that I was exposed to QTBIPOC. I started using the name and pronouns I wanted in Oakland, so this place will always be special to me. I birthed myself here and I continue to.‍

What are some of your notable successes and accomplishments?

I’m still alive. I'm living authentically. After I changed my name and pronouns, I told myself I was never going back. I’ve learned how workplaces can be harmful and toxic to Trans/GNC folks. I’m proud of holding these spaces accountable to honoring my humanity and that of my community. I’m privileged to have published my truth in my own words in a variety of publications. I’ve been able to speak openly at colleges and organizations around the country, and I’m fortunate to have my community support me. I’ve been able to pay it forward to other transmasculine survivors of gender based violence.

In 2015, I volunteered for the DapperQ Verge Fashion Show at the Institute of Contemporary Art in Boston. A designer for FONY met me backstage and asked me to walk for their line — I had  never modeled before. It was a transformative experience to be a part of the show with other QTBIPOC and wearing gender neutral clothes. I walked in the Andro Fashion Show at Womxn of Color Weekend, walked for Stuzo Clothing at DapperQ’s Gender Bending Fashion Show in 2019, and was named to DapperQ’s Stylish 100 of 2019. I’ve also been photographed for Style Is Freedom clothing and was in a photo shoot that ended up in Vogue Italia. Most of these opportunities had open casting calls; so if folks are looking to get in to shows, I encourage them to put themselves out there.

What challenges have you faced to reach where you are now, and how did you overcome these challenges?

A challenge for my style and gender journey was the lack of exposure to QTBIPOC and to our ancient gender-variant history. Erasure is profoundly damaging. Never seeing folks like me or learning about the history of gender variance in South America made me feel like something was wrong with me. Being with and seeking out community affirms me. I’ve been able to learn more and teach about Trans and Queer folks in South America which reminds me that we’ve always existed and we were honored members society before colonization.

What inspires you? Do you have role models or teachers who have supported you along the way?

I’ve done Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion work for over a decade in universities. I was briefly in the LGBT non-profit space and now I’m a tech-adjacent consultant. If you enjoy teaching, facilitating, and engaging folks in conversation this field could be for you. I appreciate being a thought partner with clients, and working with them on a variety of projects and topics.

Where will we see you next?

The biggest project I’m working on is myself. I am prioritizing my healing journey and I’m grateful to be in Oakland for that’s where I have QTBIPOC-led and -centered healing spaces. I hope to hit pause more while I’m in Oakland — so I’ll see you on the dancefloor, in the streets, on the runway, or at a writing or meditation workshop.  I’m excited to push myself to use new mediums and keep writing and working with designers.

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Follow K on Instagram @k_pmz and find more of their work on Linktree.